Notice: Undefined variable: page in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Notice: Trying to get property 'ID' of non-object in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Why Do Trees Suddenly Lean
Need help figuring out why your tree is leaning? Understanding why trees suddenly lean will help you prevent catastrophic damages and them falling on your property.
72tree.com gathered the following information to help you accurately identify why your tree is leaning and what you can do to protect your property, home, and well-being.
Why Do Trees Lean?
Some trees lean, and you may have wondered why this happens. Consider the following reasons trees lean, what it means for their health and safety, and what you should do about it.
There are multiple reasons why trees lean. The most common cause is strong prevailing winds or heavy snow and ice loads pushing the tree from its vertical axis. Trees naturally tend to grow straight up towards the sun, but environmental factors like wind and snow can cause them to tilt. Over time, this tilt can become more pronounced, resulting in a leaning tree.
Another reason for tree lean is the uneven weight distribution on the trunk. Trees with a heavy canopy (on one side) or those growing on a slope may develop a lean towards the lighter side to maintain balance. This is common in deciduous trees that have lost multiple or heavy branches on one side.
Tree lean can also be a sign of root rot or damage. A tree’s root system is fundamental for providing a tree’s stability and anchorage. A tree may lean when roots rot or are damaged due to soil erosion or compaction. This is common in areas with a high water table or soil prone to erosion.
Note: Some tree species are more prone to leaning than others. Conifer trees, like pines, are more likely to develop a lean due to their shallow root system. While trees like oaks have deep taproots that provide greater stability and reduce the risk of leaning.
While some tree lean is natural and harmless, excessive leaning can indicate a severe health issue. A leaning tree may indicate root rot, a fungal disease that can cause a tree’s root system to weaken and ultimately fail.
Tip: If you notice a tree leaning significantly, it’s crucial to have it inspected by a professional arborist quickly to determine the cause and assess the risk of the tree falling.
When to Worry about a Leaning Tree
For property owners, a leaning tree can be an alarming cause for concern. While some tree lean is natural and harmless, excessive leaning can indicate a health issue that must be quickly addressed. Here are some factors in determining whether a leaning tree is a cause for concern:
Degree of Lean – If your tree is leaning at an angle greater than 15 degrees, it may be a sign of a significant problem. Trees severely leaning can be dangerous and may need to be removed to ensure people’s and property’s safety.
Leaning Speed – If you notice the tree has started to lean suddenly or at a fast pace, it may indicate an advanced health issue. This could result from root damage or other underlying problems that must be addressed quickly.
Tree Condition – If your tree has dead or broken branches, signs of decay, or other visible damage, it may be more likely to lean. A weakened tree may not withstand strong winds or other environmental factors, leading to a more significant lean.
Location – If the leaning tree is growing near a building or other large structure, it could pose a significant risk. In such cases, it’s crucial to have the tree inspected by a professional arborist to assess the tree’s health and risk and determine the best course of action.
If you notice a leaning tree on your property, don’t delay in deciding when to remove it. Taking prompt action is crucial because waiting can significantly increase the risk of it falling and causing catastrophic or life-threatening injury.
Tip: An arborist can inspect the tree, determine the cause of the lean, and recommend the best course of action, whether pruning, cabling, or removal. Protecting your tree is paramount to ensuring your family and property’s safety.
What is Phototropism
Phototropism is a plant’s natural response to light. It’s a process in which a plant’s cells respond to the direction and intensity of light, causing the plant to grow, lean, or move toward the sun or light source.
Trees also utilize phototropism to grow toward the sun. When a tree’s leaves or branches are shaded by other trees or structures, the tree will instinctively grow towards the light source to ensure maximum exposure to sunlight. This allows the tree to produce maximum energy through photosynthesis.
The phototropic response in trees is controlled by hormones called auxins. Auxins are produced in the growing tips of the tree’s shoots and are transported down the stem, where they promote cell elongation (on the tree’s shaded side). This process causes the tree to bend towards the sun, resulting in positive phototropism.
Positive phototropism is crucial for a tree’s healthy growth. Without it, trees may be stunted or malformed from inadequate exposure to sunlight.
Note: Phototropism allows trees to adjust growth patterns in response to changing light conditions, like the sun’s shifting angle during different seasons.
Leaning Trees
In this article, you discovered several reasons that trees lean and what you can do to keep your property, home, and loved ones safe.
Knowing what causes trees to lean will help you take swift and appropriate action to save or remove your tree.
Failing to quickly identify and properly address the potential cause of your leaning tree may result in catastrophic damages to your property or injury to a person.
Notice: Undefined variable: page in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Notice: Trying to get property 'ID' of non-object in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
10 Alpharetta Tree Diseases – Identification & Treatment
Need help identifying a potential tree disease? Recognizing when your tree is diseased will help you take prompt action to prune, treat, or call in an arborist or professional to halt the disease’s progression.
72tree.com gathered the following information to help you identify tree diseases and how to effectively treat your tree to prevent further decline or death.
What Does a Diseased Tree Look Like?
Diseased trees can physically manifest their ailments in multiple ways. Some common indicators of a diseased tree include:
• Low hanging dead or dying branches (lacking bark and have no leaves) • Dropping dying or dead branches • Weak, V-shaped branch unions, where two branches have grown together • An excessively thick or dense canopy that could easily break • Excessive wilting • Leaf problems (spots, holes, odd colored, or deformed leaves) • Fuzzy or moldy patches • Water sprouts (water shoots) grow on the trunk or roots
Note: An alarming sign of advanced tree disease is when a tree starts to lean. This is an urgent problem requiring immediate professional attention.
Common Tree Diseases
The following tree diseases and their host species may require a professional assessment to determine an effective treatment plan. For an arborist in Alpharetta, we can help, or find a local arborist by visiting treesaregood.org/findanarborist. A third option is to collect samples of the tree and have them analyzed at your local university extension.
Consider the following 10 tree diseases:
1. Dutch Elm Disease (DED) (Ophiostoma ulmi) – A fungal disease that infects elm trees, causes rapid decline and death and is spread by bark beetles.
Treatment: When caught early, DED infections can be pruned out, and the tree can be protected by fungicides. Several DED-resistant elm varieties are available.
2. Oak Wilt (Ceratocystis fagacearum) – A fungal disease that affects oak trees and is spread through root grafts and sap-feeding, boring beetles.
Treatment: Trees infected with or have died from oak wilt should be completely removed, properly treated, and destroyed to prevent spore mat development. These treatments may include debarking, chipping or splitting, drying, and burning the wood.
3. Apple Scab (Venturia inaequalis) – A fungal disease that affects apple trees and causes leaf spotting and premature leaf drop.
Treatment: Scab control for edible apple and crabapple trees includes captan, lime-sulfur, and powdered or wettable sulfur applications.
4. Pine Wilt Disease (Bursaphelenchus xylophilus) – A bacterial disease that affects pine trees and is spread by pinewood nematodes and pine sawyer beetles.
Treatment: Once infected with pinewood nematodes, pesticides are no longer effective. Once a tree is infected, there is no cure for pine wilt, and dead trees left in the landscape become sources of nematodes and pine sawyer beetles. Diseased trees should be destroyed by burning, chipping, or burying.
5. Chestnut Blight (Cryphonectria parasitica) – A fungal disease affecting chestnut trees, causing cankers on the trunk and branches.
Treatment: Chestnut trees with blight cankers can be treated and often cured with mud packs applied to each canker.
6. Black Knot (Dibotryon morbosum) – A fungal disease that affects cherry and plum trees, causing black, warty growths on the branches.
Treatment: Black knot can be controlled by removing all knots and swellings by pruning 3 to 4 inches below the knot during the dormant season. Where infections occur on larger branches, excise infected tissue down to healthy wood.
7. Cedar Apple Rust (Gymnosporangium juniperi-virginianae) – A fungal disease affecting apple trees but is spread by cedar trees.
Treatment: Fungicides with Myclobutanil are most effective in preventing rust. Spray trees when buds first emerge until spring weather becomes consistently warm and dry.
Tip: Fungicides are only effective when applied before leaf spots or fruit infections appear.
8. Fire Blight (Erwinia amylovora) – A bacterial disease affecting apple and pear trees, causing wilting and blackening of the branches. There is no cure for fire blight, only control.
Treatment: Once an infected tree is removed, the fire blight bacteria are also removed. You can safely plant another apple or pear tree in its place (choose a fire blight-resistant variety).
9. Verticillium Wilt (Verticillium dahliae and Verticillium albo-atrum) – A fungal disease that affects a wide range of trees and causes foliage chlorosis and wilting. There is no effective treatment for verticillium wilt.
Treatment: Prune out affected branches and dispose of them immediately. Do not use infected wood for chips for landscape mulch.
Tip: Sanitize all pruning equipment before moving to another tree to prevent the spreading of the disease.
10. Sudden Oak Death (SOD) (Phytophthora ramorum) – A fungal disease affecting oak trees, causing leaf spots, cankers, and rapid death.
Treatment: Reliant Systemic Fungicide is a phosphonate compound injected into the tree or mixed with a surfactant and sprayed on the trunk for absorption through its bark.
Note: This treatment is not a cure but can help protect trees from infection and effectively suppress disease progression in early infection stages.
Tree Diseases
In this article, you discovered information to help you identify and treat several tree diseases before they cause your tree’s rapid decline or death.
Knowing how to identify when your tree is diseased will help you spring into action with effective treatments or get professional help.
Your inability to detect or identify when your tree is diseased can lead to rapid decline, death, and catastrophic personal or structural damage when it collapses or falls on your property.
Notice: Undefined variable: page in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Notice: Trying to get property 'ID' of non-object in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Armillaria Root Rot Identification, Treatment, and Prevention
Need help figuring out how to identify and stop root rot from killing your trees, shrubs, or plants? Your ability to quickly identify Armillaria root rot will help you take swift action to eradicate it from your landscape.
72tree.com gathered the following information about the causes, identification, treatment, and prevention of Armillaria root rot.
What is Armillaria Root Rot
Armillaria root rot is a severe tree and woody plant disease. Armillaria can also affect palms, succulents, ferns, and other herbaceous plants. This disease is caused by multiple fungi in the genus Armillaria, also known as shoestring root rot, oak root fungus, honey agaric, or honey fungus.
Note: Armillaria mycelia may live hundreds of years or die within months. Armillaria’s lifespan depends on an available food supply. As long as nourishment is accessible and temperature and moisture are suitable, an Armillaria mycelium network will produce new sporophores (mushrooms) each fruiting season (late summer and fall).
What Causes Armillaria Root Rot?
Armillaria root rot is caused by several species of Armillaria fungus. The disease can occur in many different evergreen and deciduous tree, shrub, and plant species. Armillaria can survive many years in wood debris like old stumps or root systems. New infections typically occur when healthy roots grow close to or graft (inosculate) with diseased roots.
Armillaria Infection Identification
Many known species of Armillaria exist in North America and are not easily distinguishable from one another. The most common and pathogenic species to trees (specifically conifers) are Armillaria mellea and Armillaria ostoyae.
Trees show symptoms and signs of Armillaria infection at different rates. Trees under stress, like during the summer heat or drought, are more likely to become infected and show rapid decline symptoms. Young trees may show symptoms and die within months or days compared to older trees, which may show symptoms for years before dying. Symptoms typically appear as the following:
• Dramatically reduced terminal growth • Yellowing and browning of foliage • Whitish resin around a tree’s base • Creamy-white fans of fungus between bark and wood at the root flare • Brown or black fungal rhizomes (resembling shoestrings) beneath the bark, on the roots, and in the soil • Large groups of tan-colored mushrooms (honey mushrooms) near decaying wood in late summer and fall • Sudden death of young trees (often in groups)
Note: An Armillaria-infected tree’s foliage typically wilts, turns yellow, and browns without falling from the tree.
How Does Armillaria Root Rot Spread?
Some species of Armillaria will produce mushrooms near (or on) infected tree roots or trunks. While new infections can result from airborne spores released by Armillaria mushrooms, the most common way this disease spreads is by underground rhizomorph growth originating from an infected tree, shrub, or plant.
Tip: Infected plants can spread this disease to shrubs and trees with roots in their vicinity (and vice-versa).
Can Armillaria be Treated?
No. Once a host is infected, there is no effective treatment (cure) for Armillaria root rot. The disease can be managed (somewhat) by consistently removing dead trees, shrubs, plants, infected stumps, and entire root systems. Armillaria requires consistent moisture to survive. In large stands or groves, excavation around the root crown can be an effective deterrent but not a cure.
Can a Tree Recover from Root Rot?
Slowing Armillaria root rot in plants, shrubs, and trees is possible by removing affected roots and dead wood if the foliage is in the early stages of root rot or if the decay isn’t widespread. Unfortunately, because digging up larger trees to access decayed or dead roots is virtually impossible, slowing root rot in established trees is very difficult.
There are no chemical controls for honey fungus at present. The only viable option is to dig out the affected plant, shrub, or tree complete with all its roots and burn it.
Which Fungicide is Best for Root Rot Prevention?
Apply any of the most effective fungicides (those with thiophanate-methyl, polyoxin-D, triflumizole, or fludioxonil) preventively to uninfected soil. Once a plant, shrub, or tree is infected with Armillaria root rot, the fungi’s mycelia also contaminate the surrounding soil and are highly resistant to fungicides and other chemical treatments.
Armillaria Root Rot Elimination
The only absolute method to eliminate Armillaria root rot is the complete removal and incineration of infected plants, shrubs, and trees, including their foliage, trunks, stems, and roots.
Eliminating this fungus in contaminated soil requires extended desiccation and exposure to sunlight.
Note: If planting in previously exposed soil, select Armillaria-resistant species. Armillaria-resistant tree species include the following:
Tip: Hire a certified arborist to help you completely remove infected plants, shrubs, and trees, sterilize contaminated soil, and plant new, resistant species in their place. Find an ISA-certified arborist (or verify one’s credentials) by visiting treesaregood.org/findanarborist.
Armillaria Root Rot
In this article, you discovered crucial information about Armillaria root rot and how to eliminate it from your property.
Knowing how to identify and deal with Armillaria root rot will help you remove and destroy infected specimens and preserve unaffected trees, shrubs, and plants.
Failure to quickly identify and prevent Armillaria root rot from spreading across your property will result in tree, shrub, and plant death, leaving your soil virtually useless.
Notice: Undefined variable: page in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Notice: Trying to get property 'ID' of non-object in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
What is Well-Drained Soil
Tired of pooling water and dying plants, shrubs, and trees on your property? Understanding what well-drained soil is and the crucial role it plays in keeping your landscape alive will help you take action to correct poor soil drainage.
72tree.com gathered the following information about what well-drained soil is, why it is essential to plant life, and what you can do to improve your soil’s drainage.
Well-Drained Soil Defined
Well-drained soil allows water to move through it quickly and not pool. Standing water or saturated soil deprives roots of oxygen and can lead to root rot, disease, and decline (ironically) from hydraulic failure in the plant’s vascular system. Some plants, shrubs, and tree species are adapted to tolerate saturated conditions longer than others but will eventually suffer a similar fate.
Poor Soil Drainage Symptoms
Besides pooling water and soil erosion, plants growing in poorly-drained soil suffer from a lack of oxygen, resulting in root death and the plant’s rapid decline. Other indicators include:
• Stunted or slow growth with yellowing leaves • Leaf scorch or leaf burn • Edema (spots and blisters) may appear on stems and leaves • The plant’s crown may quickly wither and rot
Note: Edema is a plant disorder caused by roots absorbing more water than the leaves can transpire (a common problem resulting from poor soil drainage). This excess water ruptures cells and appears as water-soaked patches turning corky and unsightly.
When soils are improperly managed, they can become compacted. This condition can occur during and after construction. Foot and vehicular traffic also compresses the soil pores and limits the oxygen and water that would otherwise move through the soil.
How Do I Know if My Soil is Well-Drained
Besides watching for pooling water and other symptoms, you can test and improve your soil by doing the following:
1 – Dig a hole about 12 inches wide and 12 inches deep 2 – Fill the hole with water 3 – After it completely drains, refill it with water and mark the time 4 – Note how long the water takes to drain
The water level in soil with excellent drainage should drop 1 to 2 inches per hour. Any longer, and you should take steps to improve the soil.
How to Improve Soil Drainage
Soil is composed of sand, silt, and clay particles varying in size. Sand has the largest particle size, and clay has the smallest. When soil contains large sand proportions, it has more pore space and is more sharply drained (similar to a sandy beach). Soil with high clay content has significantly less pore space. Reduced pore space slows water drainage and causes the soil to hold water for longer periods. Consider the following soil structure improvement methods:
Amend the Soil with Compost – Add organic matter to improve drainage in poorly drained soil. Organic matter, like compost, improves soil structure by increasing soil aggregation (soil aggregates are groups of soil particles). The space between these aggregates creates the space required for holding and exchanging air and water.
Spread compost 3 inches thick over the soil surface and work it into the top 10 inches of soil with a shovel, garden fork, or tillage.
Tip: Using a rototiller too frequently breaks down soil aggregates, defeating your soil improvement efforts.
Plant Cover Crops – Cover crops can help significantly improve soil drainage by increasing organic matter, and their roots help break apart or expand compacted soil. Some popular cover crop plant species include:
Cover crops are sometimes called “green manure” or “living mulch.” These species can add nitrogen to your soil, improve drainage, and boost fertility (without applying chemical fertilizers).
Aerate the Soil – Aerating can help relieve soil compaction. A core aerator removes soil plugs, leaving holes to loosen the soil, improving drainage, and getting air to roots.
Add Earthworms – Earthworms naturally and quickly improve soil pore size, water infiltration rate, water content, and water-holding capacity. Their burrowing tends to reach over 3 feet in depth, breaking up hardpans and promoting deep soil structure and aggregation.
Note: Soil with healthy earthworm populations drains up to 10 times faster than soil without them.
Well-Drained Soil
In this article, you discovered information defining well-drained soil, why it is essential to plant life, and how you can reverse poor soil drainage.
Recognizing when your soil is not draining properly will help you take prompt action to correct it and keep your plants, shrubs, and trees alive and thriving.
Your misunderstanding of soil drainage can lead to hydraulic failure in your landscape’s plant life, leaving you with diseased, declining, or dead plants, shrubs, and trees.
Notice: Undefined variable: page in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Notice: Trying to get property 'ID' of non-object in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
5 Self-Pollinating Fruit Trees for Alpharetta Georgia Landscapes
Need help choosing standalone fruit trees for your Alpharetta, Georgia landscape? Knowing which fruit tree species self-pollinate will help you choose individual fruit-bearing trees that provide your Alpharetta, Georgia landscape with shade, beauty, and delicious fruit.
72tree.com gathered species and growing information for several self-fruiting trees hardy to Alpharetta, Georgia, landscapes.
What is a Self-Pollinating Fruit Tree?
Most fruit trees are self-sterile for their own pollen (requiring a second compatible tree and a pollen vector). However, self-pollinating fruit trees only need their pollen to self-fertilize and bear fruit, and they can be planted as a standalone tree. As the name suggests, these trees do not require pollen vectors (bees, flies, wasps, etc.). Consider the following self-pollinating fruit trees for your Alpharetta, Georgia, landscape:
1. Pomegranate (Punica granatum)
Pomegranates can be grown as large shrubs or small trees with smooth, evergreen leaves, and showy orange to red flowers. It produces rounded and seeded fruit with a dry outer covering.
Mature Size – Pomegranates reach 10 to 20 feet in height and have a 10 to 20-foot spread. Soil Needs – This species thrives in loam, sandy, and clay well-draining soil with a 5.5 to 7.2 pH. Sun Requirement – Full sun (minimum 6 hours daily) Water Needs – Irrigate every 7 to 10 days during dry conditions. Pomegranate trees require approximately 60 inches of water annually. Fruiting – Pomegranate trees typically produce a harvest two to three years after planting. Most varieties flower from spring into fall and fruits (set in March or April) will be ready for harvest between August and October. Hardiness Zone – 7 through 10
2. Peach (Prunus persica)
Peach trees typically grow a rounded crown with upward-reaching branches draped in three to six-inch-long, dark green, deciduous leaves.
Mature Size – Peach trees reach 25 feet in height and have a 25-foot spread (when left unpruned). Soil Needs – This species thrives in lightweight loamy, well-drained soil with a 6.0 to 6.8 pH. Sun Requirement – Full sun (minimum 6 hours daily) Water Needs – Irrigate daily with 35 – 40 gallons during summer months. Peach trees require approximately 36 inches of water annually. Fruiting – Peach trees typically bear fruit 2 to 4 years after planting. A peach tree may bear fruit from June through August, with some species bearing fruit through September. Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9
3. Apricot (Prunus armeniaca)
Apricot trees have an upright growth pattern with a broad canopy. The leaves are ovate with a rounded base, pointed tip, and serrated margin. The tree produces white to pink flowers and fleshy yellow to orange fruit. Apricots are self-pollinating, but planting two different varieties (blooming simultaneously) can result in a significantly larger harvest.
Mature Size – Full-size apricot trees reach 25 feet in height and have a 25-foot spread. Soil Needs – This species thrives in loamy, well-drained soil with a 6.5 to 8.0 pH. Sun Requirement – Full sun (minimum 6 hours daily) Water Needs – Provide your apricot tree with an inch of water every ten to 12 days. Fruiting – Apricot trees typically bear fruit 3 to 4 years after planting. Blooming in early spring only on two-year or older wood. Fruits ripen and should be harvested from June through August. Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9
4. Fig (Ficus carica)
The common fig tree is a deciduous, multi-trunk tree with smooth, gray bark and a wide but low, open canopy. This species has large multi-lobed, showy, dark green leaves and produces small, inconspicuous flowers.
Mature Size – Fig trees reach 10 to 30 feet in height with a 20-foot spread. Soil Needs – Figs prefer moist, well-drained, organically rich soil with a 6.0 to 7.5 pH. Sun Requirement – Full sun (minimum 6 hours daily) Water Needs – Fig trees need 1 to 1-1/2 inches of irrigated water or rainfall per week (minimum). Fruiting – Most fig trees take three to five years before ripening fruit. Figs typically form on new stem growth each year and ripen from May through November. Hardiness Zone – 8 through 10 (6 and 7 if protected)
5. Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana)
The common persimmon is a deciduous tree grown for its beautiful foliage and delicious fruit. When the fruit ripens, they range in color from yellow to red-orange.
Mature Size – Persimmon trees reach 35 to 60 feet in height with a 20 to 30-foot spread. Soil Needs – Persimmon trees grow best in loamy, well-drained soil with a 6.0 to 6.5 pH. Sun Requirement – Full sun (minimum 8 hours daily) Water Needs – Water a persimmon tree for 10 minutes once or twice weekly in the spring and summer. Persimmon trees can withstand short drought periods. Fruiting – Persimmons are a fall crop typically ripening from early fall through early winter. There are two primary varieties of persimmons (The astringent fruit is consumed when it becomes soft, and the non-astringent fruit is eaten while firm. Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9
Self-Pollinating Fruit Trees
In this article, you discovered species and planting information for several self-pollinating fruit trees ideal for landscapes in Alpharetta, Georgia.
Knowing which self-pollinating trees to plant in your Alpharetta, Georgia landscape will help you grow magnificent shade trees that provide an abundant annual fruit harvest.
Avoid planting trees that require attention, pollination, or not knowing which self-pollinating species are most suitable for your Alpharetta yard.
Notice: Undefined variable: page in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Notice: Trying to get property 'ID' of non-object in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
5 Pine Tree Diseases and Treatments
Keep treatable diseases from infecting and killing your pine trees. Recognizing the signs of disease and taking action to stop them will help you keep your pine trees robust and stable.
72tree.com gathered the following information and tips about pine tree disease signs, treatments, and prevention.
Pine Tree Disease
In years with heavy rainfall or severe drought, pine trees may brown in response. Browning is typically caused by the pine tree’s inability to uptake sufficient water to keep its needles fresh and alive. When moisture is overly abundant (and drainage is poor), root rot and other diseases are often the culprits. Consider the following pine tree diseases:
1. Annosus Root Disease (Heterobasidion annosum)
Heterobasidion annosum is a basidiomycete fungus in the Bondarzewiaceae family. It is considered one of the most economically damaging forest pathogens in the Northern Hemisphere. Heterobasidion annosum is widespread in US forests and is responsible for $1 billion in annual pine tree losses.
Appearance – In some cases, resin flow may appear near the root collar as the tree attempts to defend itself against attack. Diseased pines may show crown thinning and yellowing. In pine trees, the disease is most active in the sapwood, killing tissues and heartwood as it progresses. Treatment – Carefully remove and destroy infected trees and stumps. Any stumps left in the ground should be treated with borax. Prevention – This disease typically enters a pine tree stand when spores land on freshly cut limbs or stump surfaces. The fungus grows from the stump into nearby live trees via root grafts or contacts. For prevention, treat stumps with borax whenever thinning in a high-hazard area.
2. Diplodia Tip Blight (Sphaeropsis sapinea)
Diplodia blight, previously called Sphaeropsis tip blight, is a common fungal disease of stressed conifers, most typically pines with needles in bunches of 2's and 3's.
Appearance – Needles of new shoots will remain stunted, turn straw-colored, and will be glued in place from excess resin. Mature needles on branches end up killed by girdling cankers. Sticky, clear-to-white resin is found on dead twigs, the main stem, or branches with cankers. Treatment – If you previously had problems with Diplodia, consider applying fungicides as the candles are expanding and then two more applications at 2-week intervals (bud break, half candle, and full candle). This typically prevents any spores from being disseminated from infecting the tree’s succulent new growth. Prevention – Proper tree care, including increased irrigation during drought, pruning, and equipment sanitation are often effective methods for control of Diplodia tip blight and canker, especially when pines are newly infected.
Pine trees of all ages can become infected. Symptoms are typically first seen at the base of the crown on older needles. Infected needles develop yellow and tan spots and bands, which soon turn red. As the disease progresses, the ends of the needles turn reddish-brown while the needle base oddly remains green.
Appearance – Reddish brown spots or bands appear on needles in the fall. Needle spots girdle the pine’s needles. The needle beyond the band dies and turns brown, leaving the bottom portion of the needle green. Tiny black fungal fruiting bodies will appear in the bands or the needle’s dead areas. Treatment – A copper fungicide spray is an effective method to prevent needle cast. Other useful fungicides are chlorothalonil and mancozeb. Prevention – If your trees have a history of Dothistroma needle blight, copper fungicides can protect new needles from infection. Fungicides need to be applied before buds open in the spring.
4. Fusiform Rust (Cronartium quercuum)
Fusiform rust is caused by a curious fungus that produces five spore stages and requires an oak and a pine tree to complete its life cycle.
Appearance – Fusiform rust is caused by Cronartium quorum f. sp. fusiforme. It produces bright orange spores on southern yellow pines, especially loblolly pine, in springtime. Treatment – Avoid planting any rust susceptible pine tree species in locations where fusiform rust is or has been an issue. Pruning branch cankers and completely removing diseased branches can help lower potential trunk infection. However, once the trunk is infected, branch pruning is no longer recommended (careful tree removal and destruction is). Prevention – Disease prevention is best accomplished by planting resistant pine species and treating all oak trees growing anywhere in the vicinity of your pine trees.
5. Needle Rust (Chrysomyxa ledicola Logerh)
Pine or spruce needle rust is easily identified by pale, white, or orange blisters appearing on infected needles (in summertime). White blisters will appear on the current year's needle growth.
Appearance – Yellow-to-orange spots or bands appear on green needles in spring. In late spring to early summer, tiny, raised, white tubes form on needles breaking open to release powdery, orange spores. These infected needles can remain attached to the tree for several years. Treatment – Needle rust is considered a minor stress on pine trees and typically requires no management efforts. However, when necessary, the most efficient rust disease control is to carefully prune and destroy affected areas and remove any visible galls (abnormal growths) in late winter or early spring before they can produce spores. Prevention – Follow these best practices to help prevent spruce needle rust:
• Redirect lawn sprinklers away from pine branches and needles. • Plant your spruce trees far enough apart to allow good air circulation between them. • Prune out and destroy wilted or blighted stems and branches.
Note: In most cases, pine needle rust is a cosmetic issue, and no management is needed.
Pine Tree Disease Control
In this article, you discovered essential information and pro tips on identifying, treating, and preventing several pine tree diseases.
Knowing how to identify, control, and prevent deadly pine tree diseases will help you keep your pine trees thriving while stopping these diseases from spreading across your landscape.
Failing to recognize signs of diseased pine trees will lead to their death, potentially causing catastrophic damages and life-threatening injury when they fall.
Notice: Undefined variable: page in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Notice: Trying to get property 'ID' of non-object in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
7 Beautiful Trees for Alpharetta Georgia Landscapes
Avoid planting run-of-mill trees and having a basic landscape. Knowing the unique trees that can grow in your Alpharetta landscape will create a captivating aesthetic and curb appeal.
72tree.com gathered the following species and growing information about 7 of the most beautiful trees to plant in your Alpharetta, Georgia, landscape.
1. Southern Live Oak (Quercus virginiana)
Live oak grows to be a massive, picturesque, sprawling tree with magnificent horizontal and arching branches that form a broad, rounded, and majestic canopy. A squat, tapering trunk supports the massive, irregular limbs, often resting their “elbows” on the ground.
Size at Maturity – On average, this species reaches 50 feet in height with an 80+ foot spread. Soil Requirements – The live oak thrives in acidic, alkaline, loamy, moist, sandy, well-drained, and clay soils. Sun Exposure – Full sun to partial shade Water Needs – While your oak tree establishes its root system and matures for the first 2 to 3 years, you should water it weekly. It will take about 10 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter to keep this species thriving. Hardiness Zone – 7 through 10
2. Rhododendron (Rhododendron)
Rhododendron, or “red tree,” refers to the red flowers and woody growth of some species, but rhododendrons can range in habit from evergreen to deciduous and from low-growing shrubs to tall, stunning trees.
Size at Maturity – This species can reach 5 to 20 feet tall with a 3 to 8-foot spread (depending on the variety). Soil Requirements – Rhododendrons thrive in well-draining soil with abundant organic matter. Sun Exposure – Full sun Water Needs – Water rhododendrons twice weekly during the first growing season. Once established, only water them during dry periods. Hardiness Zone – 4 through 8
3. Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum)
This incredible maple shows off bright green foliage in spring and summer, then turns golden yellow and red in the fall.
Size at Maturity – This species can reach from 15 to 25 feet tall with a 15 to 20-foot spread. Soil Requirements – Japanese maples thrive when planted in well-drained, acidic soil high in organic matter. Sun Exposure – Dappled or Afternoon Shade Water Needs – Water this species heavily twice weekly during normal weather and increase waterings to three or four times during droughts. Hardiness Zone – 5 through 8
4. Weeping Cherry (Prunus subhirtella)
This cherry tree variety generally features non-fragrant pale pink to white flowers in spring, pea-sized blackish (inedible) fruits in late summer, and ovate to lanceolate green leaves gently swaying on drooping branches and stems.
Size at Maturity – This species can reach from 20 to 25 feet tall with a 15 to 20-foot spread. Soil Requirements – Weeping cherry trees are highly-adaptable to a range of soil types but flourish in loose, well-drained, loamy soil. Sun Exposure – Full sun Water Needs – A weeping cherry tree should be watered two to three times weekly during its first year. Afterward, it should only be watered when the top three inches of soil are dry. Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9
5. Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
This tree species displays a variety of colors throughout the year. Leaves emerge reddish, turning vibrant green as they expand. The tree’s foliage is dark green in summer and yellowish in autumn. The tree’s showy flowers are pea-like and rosy pink with a purplish tinge.
Size at Maturity – This species can reach from 20 to 30 feet tall with a 25 to 35-foot spread. Soil Requirements – Eastern redbud trees thrive in acidic, alkaline, loamy, moist, nutrient-rich, sandy, well-drained, and clay soil. Sun Exposure – Full sun to partial shade Water Needs – Water your eastern redbud two to three times weekly during its first year. Afterward, it should only be watered when the top three inches of soil are dry. Hardiness Zone – 4 through 9
6. Rainbow Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus deglupta)
The rainbow eucalyptus is an evergreen tree with drooping spear-shaped, silvery-green leaves and curious clusters of tiny white flowers. The tree’s most stunning feature is the trunk, which grows rainbow bark in vibrant (nearly fluorescent) green, blue, orange, red, and purple shades. When planted in cooler areas, this tree species will require shelter from freezing wind and extremely low temperatures.
Size at Maturity – This species can reach 60 to 80 feet tall with a 20 to 30-foot spread. Soil Requirements – This species thrives in sandy, loamy soils that are fertile, moist, and well-drained. Sun Exposure – Full sun Water Needs – Water your tree daily for best results, never flooding the tree with standing water. Hardiness Zone – 9 through 11
7. Red Oak (Quercus rubra)
Most red oak leaves fade to brilliant red or orange-red shades in fall and will hold their color longer than other deciduous trees. Some red oak trees have yellow fall foliage instead of red.
Size at Maturity – This species can reach 60 to 75 feet tall with a 45-foot spread. Soil Requirements – Like other oak species, red oak thrives in acidic, loamy, moist, sandy, well-drained, and clay soils. Sun Exposure – Full sun to partial sun Water Needs – While your oak tree establishes its root system and matures for the first 2 to 3 years, you should water it weekly. It will take about 10 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter to keep this species thriving. Hardiness Zone – 3 through 8
Beautiful Landscape Trees
In this article, you discovered essential species and growing tips for seven of the most attractive tree species for Alpharetta, Georgia, landscapes.
Knowing which tree species possess beautiful features will help you add intrigue and stunning visuals to your Alpharetta, Ga, landscape.
Not knowing the tree species capable of enhancing your Alpharetta, Georgia yard will leave your landscape dull and impressive.
Notice: Undefined variable: page in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Notice: Trying to get property 'ID' of non-object in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Growing Coffee Trees in Alpharetta Georgia
Skip planting coffee trees in Alpharetta, Georgia for them to only wilt and die. Knowing how and where to plant your coffee trees in Alpharetta, GA will give you a specimen tree worthy of years of conversation and appreciation.
72tree.com gathered the following species and growing information to help you plant, grow, and protect beautiful coffee trees in your yard or garden.
Is Coffee a Plant, Shrub, or Tree?
That depends on how you choose to grow them. Coffee plants are woody evergreens that can grow up to 6 feet and can be groomed to grow as large, sprawling bushes, or as short, robust trees.
Coffee Tree Information
Coffee (Coffea) is a genus of more than 120 species of flowering plants in the Rubiaceae family, mostly native to tropical Africa. Four species are primary coffee sources grown throughout the “coffee belt;” they include Arabica, Robusta, Excelsa, and Liberica. When growing coffee in Alpharetta, Georgia, consider the following species requirements:
Soil Requirement – A healthy coffee plant requires nutrient-rich, well-drained, and acidic soil. The soil also needs to be maintained at a pH level between 4.9–5.6. At these pH levels, the plant can better absorb nutrients, resulting in more coffee cherries and fewer pest or disease-related issues.
Sun Preference – This is a species of understory plants and will not thrive in direct, harsh sunlight. Coffee plants that are exposed to too much sunlight will develop chlorosis and leaf browning.
Water Requirement – Coffee plants need to be watered regularly and will droop when they are under-watered. Keep the soil moist without letting the roots sit in water.
Spacing – Place individual plants 8 feet apart to create a hedge and further apart if you plan on harvesting the beans. You’ll need to leave sufficient room to freely walk around each plant.
Hardiness Zone – Coffee trees are cold hardy to zones 10 and 11 (the Coffee Belt) but can be grown in zones 7 through 9 with proper care and protection in the colder months.
Winter Protection – This species is not frost-tolerant, so freezing temperatures are detrimental to your plant. A coffee tree exposed to temperatures below 30° F (1° C) easily dies. It is better to move the plant indoors (when grown in containers) or well-sheltered or wrapped when grown in the yard or garden.
Harvest Time – Harvest your coffee cherries from October through December. However, depending on the species and weather conditions, you may be treated to a second crop, harvested from April through June.
Note: Proper care will help you maintain and even increase your tree’s output over the years, depending on the variety. The average mature coffee tree can produce 10 pounds of coffee cherries or 2 pounds of beans annually.
Tip: Since coffee trees are so sensitive to colder weather, you may find greater success growing them in containers. This way, when cold or freezing weather approaches, your coffee trees can be moved to a greenhouse, garage, or indoors until warmer weather returns.
How to Process Coffee at Home
Harvesting, processing, and brewing your own coffee beans leaves you in absolute control of the quality, purity, and flavor of your home-grown coffee. The following steps will help you properly harvest, prepare, and brew coffee at home.
Step 1 – Pick ripe coffee cherries – Coffee cherries should be picked at their ripest when they have a dark-red exterior. This allows time for the fruit’s sugars to ferment, resulting in a deep, complex, and sweet cup of coffee when the seeds are roasted.
Step 2 – Remove the beans from the fruit – Soaking the harvested beans in water overnight will loosen the fruit from the bean, facilitating the bean’s removal.
Step 3 – Soak the beans in water for 48 hours – This step will help remove the slimy covering on your beans. They’re ready when they feel rough between your fingers instead of slick. Rinse them off and proceed to the next step.
Step 4 – Thoroughly dry the beans – This step is crucial if you intend to store the beans for any time and prevent mold. Spread the beans out on a flat surface and allow them to sun dry for 2 to 4 days. (If you intend to brew them immediately, skip this step and proceed to step 5).
Step 5 – Removing the parchment from your beans – The parchment is a naturally occurring, papery substance surrounding coffee beans (just like the membrane-like layer enveloping other fruit seeds). Hulling away the parchment is optional since some coffee beans are sold “in parchment” (or “en pergamino”). It depends on your preference.
Step 6 – Roast your beans – You can roast your coffee beans in a stainless steel skillet or pot over medium heat, bake the beans in the oven, or even roast them in an air fryer. Any way you choose, use medium heat, stirring frequently, and avoid burning them.
Step 7 – Grind and brew your coffee – Grind your roasted beans to your preferred coarseness and brew your homemade coffee how you like it.
Note: Traditionally, coffee is harvested by hand in one of two ways: strip picking or selective picking. Strip picking is exactly how it sounds, trees are harvested, “stripping” all the beans from the branches, ripened and unripened cherries. Selective picking is more time-consuming but allows you to harvest only ripe coffee cherries.
Growing Coffee in Alpharetta, Georgia
In this article, you discovered species, growing, and harvesting information to help you grow and cultivate the coffea species in Alpharetta, Georgia.
Properly caring for and protecting your coffee trees can provide your landscape with a unique fruiting plant species that can keep you well-supplied with coffee to grind.
Being ignorant to coffee tree planting and care requirements will lead to their eventual decline and death.
Notice: Undefined variable: page in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Notice: Trying to get property 'ID' of non-object in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Japanese Blueberry Tree Problems and Solutions
Protect your Japanese blueberry tree from fungus, decline, and death. Knowing some of the more common problems your Elaeocarpus decipiens can go through will help you avoid losing your tree to poor health conditions.
72tree.com gathered the following information to help you identify and quickly treat some of the more frequent problems occurring with the Japanese blueberry species.
What is a Japanese Blueberry Tree?
The Japanese blueberry tree (Elaeocarpus decipiens) is a remarkably beautiful, broad-leaved evergreen tree originating from East Asia. Its compact form, lush appearance, and elegant branching pattern make this tree species a sought-after lawn, garden, or street tree with year-round appeal.
Japanese Blueberry trees grow up to 40 feet with a spread of about 30 feet. This allows tree owners to prune and shape the tree however they want. The tree is a fascinating topiary canvas, allowing growers to be creative and build their yards and gardens the way they like.
Note: This evergreen can be grown as a large shrub or tree.
Japanese Blueberry Tree Problems
When it comes to tree problems, Japanese blueberry trees are exceptionally resilient and disease-resistant. The tree’s troubles are minor, but they still require attention to keep them under control. If you’ve spotted any of the problems listed below, quickly take action, as they can all be solved with the appropriate care and attention.
1. Tree Tops Dying Back
There may be several reasons for this damage. Borers can cause mechanical damage to the trunk shutting off the water and nutrients going to the top. Diseases developing beneath the bark can do the same thing. Because the Japanese blueberry is relatively thin-barked, sunburn or sunscald from intense sunlight can kill the trunk in that location and cause this dieback. Human activities around the tree can cause similar bark damage as well.
Boring Insect Solution: For boring insects, the best treatment is prevention. There is little you can do to save the tree once they’ve infested it. You can protect un-infested trees from borer infestation and damage with an insecticide soil drench once a year and an annual checkup from an arborist or trusted tree service.
Sunburn or Sunscald Solution: Again, the best remedy is prevention. If your Japanese blueberry is thinning out or your pruning activities have exposed areas of the bark, you can use white wraps around the trunk, either paper or plastic, as well as white paint to reflect the sunlight and keep the bark from overheating. Avoid pruning your tree too thin.
Human Damage Solution: Avoid vehicle, bicycle, and pedestrian traffic beneath the canopy of your Japanese blueberry. Pruning activities should be done by a professional tree service, arborist, or landscaper (specialized in topiary cutting and care).
2. Chlorosis (Iron Deficiency)
Japanese Blueberry trees are susceptible to chlorosis. This condition occurs when the tree does not get enough iron from the soil. Iron is a mineral required by plants, shrubs, and trees to make chlorophyll. This substance gives leaves their green color and is essential for photosynthesis.
Chlorosis causes a lack of chlorophyll in the tree’s foliage, making it relatively easy to identify. Leaves will begin to lose their green color, turning yellow. Over time, these yellow leaves will fall, and the barren branches left behind will start to die.
Two primary reasons cause Iron deficiency in your Japanese Blueberry trees. The first is a lack of iron in the soil. This, however, is not common. The more likely cause is an inadequate soil pH level.
Japanese Blueberry trees grow best in neutral pH. These trees prefer a soil pH between 6.1 and 7.5. Any higher, and it would be too acidic for the roots to efficiently absorb any Iron from the soil.
Chlorosis Solution: A soil pH test can determine if the pH is the problem. In case it is the pH that is causing the chlorosis issue, the solution is simple. You may have to either increase or decrease your soil’s acidity:
• Use sulfur, compost, or mulch to increase soil acidity • Apply a material containing a form of lime to decrease soil acidity
Tip: When in doubt about pH testing or adjusting your soil’s acidity, consult your landscaper or arborist on how to proceed.
3. Leaf Rust
Leaf Rust is not a lethal affliction and can be easily treated. Leaf rust is caused by the Naohidemyces Vaccinii fungus, this fungal growth results in yellow spots growing on the tree’s foliage. These “spurs” eventually develop into rust-colored blemishes. In addition, leaf rust can stunt your tree’s growth and make it unhealthy if not properly addressed.
Leaf Rust is formed when the fungus grows on the tree’s leaves. For the fungus to develop, it requires a moist environment, and wet leaves are ideal. This is why watering should occur at the soil level around your Japanese Blueberry trees.
Leaf Rust Solution: Once you have identified leaf rust spreading through your tree, you must treat it with an anti-fungal or a fungicide to avoid spreading the fungus any further.
4. Sooty Mold
Sooty mold does not directly harm the tree; this affliction is not too troublesome and can typically be easily resolved. The problem behind sooty mold is that it can make your tree an eye-sore with black patches all over the leaves, and as the black mold accumulates, it blocks sunlight from reaching the leaves and disrupts photosynthesis. Without photosynthesis, the tree will lose its vibrant color and wilt, eventually dying.
To understand how to fix this affliction, you must first understand what causes sooty mold to form. Sooty mold will only develop on honeydew. Honeydew is a waste product deposited by aphids and other invasive insects that feed on your Japanese blueberry.
A sign that your tree has an aphid problem is the presence of ants trailing up and down the tree, tending to and protecting the honeydew-producing insects. Another sign is bees flying around the leaves for no apparent reason.
Sooty Mold Solution: A quick but temporary solution is to spray your trees with a garden hose, washing away the honeydew and sooty mold buildup.
Neem oil applied to affected areas serves as a natural pesticide, repelling the insects feeding on your tree’s foliage and the ants protecting them.
Ladybugs have a voracious appetite and are extremely effective in eliminating aphids and scale. Ladybugs can be purchased in bulk and released directly on your tree. They will naturally spread throughout your landscape, potentially eliminating the need for any chemical-based pesticide applications.
Japanese Blueberry Tree Care
In this article, you discovered how to identify and treat several commonly occurring problems with your Japanese blueberry trees.
Knowing how to identify tree problems and take swift measures to resolve them will help keep your Japanese blueberry trees flourishing on your property.
Ignoring Japanese blueberry tree problems can quickly lead to severe tree problems, diseases, and infestations that will kill your tree.
Notice: Undefined variable: page in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Notice: Trying to get property 'ID' of non-object in /home/vrxdg1855sn3/public_html/wp-content/themes/72tree/content.php on line 15
Tree-Boring Beetle Description and Prevention
Avoid losing your trees to a tree-boring beetle infestation. Knowing how to identify tree-boring beetles and prevent them from destroying your trees will help you preserve and strengthen your landscape’s ecosystem.
72tree.com gathered the following information to help you identify tree-boring beetles, the damage they do to trees, how to treat them, and how to prevent beetle infestations.
Tree-Boring Beetle Damage
Borers tunnel into trees to feed on their inner wood. Symptoms can be slightly different depending on the borer, but in general, these critters create holes in tree bark, leave behind sawdust or sap and cause leaf discoloration and branch dieback, and can ultimately kill the tree. Consider the following:
Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis)
Emerald ash borer (EAB), Agrilus planipennis, is an exotic beetle discovered in southeastern Michigan near Detroit in the summer of 2002. The adult beetles feed on ash foliage but cause minor damage. The emerald ash borer’s larval stage is responsible for the damage that leads to the host tree’s death. The larvae’s feeding under the tree bark eventually interrupts the tree’s ability to transport water and nutrients from the roots to the tree’s foliage, causing ash tree decline and death.
The emerald ash borer has decimated over 40 million ash trees in Michigan alone and tens of millions throughout other states and Canada. Small (younger) trees can die as soon as one to two years after an EAB infestation, while more mature infested trees can survive three to four years. Without intervention and preventative measures, an EAB infestation is 100% fatal to the host.
Vulnerable Tree Species – All eastern North American ash species are susceptible to EAB, including green, white, black, blue, and pumpkin ash trees. Infestation Signs – Thinning and yellowing leaves, D-shaped holes in the bark, and severe canopy and bark loss Treatment – Injection by a professional pesticide applicator (or a certified arborist) is the best option for trees greater than 48 inches in circumference (15 inches in diameter). Sprayed and poured insecticides are not as effective. Prevention – It is challenging to prevent an initial EAB infestation of an individual tree. But you can prevent EAB from spreading to other trees. The only way to prevent your ash trees from falling victim to EAB is to treat them. Untreated ash trees are a significant contributor to EAB’s spreading. Information/Reporting – If you suspect you’ve seen the emerald ash borer or ash tree damage caused by a potential infestation, report it immediately by calling 1-866-322-4512. You can also report your findings online at aphis.usda.gov/aphis/resources/pests-diseases/hungry-pests/Pest-Tracker
Note: You can also report an EAB sighting or infestation by reaching out to your county’s Extension office or a designated state representative found at emeraldashborer.info/reporting-eab.php
Mountain Pine Beetle (Dendroctonus ponderosae)
The mountain pine beetle (MPB) is a bark beetle species native to the forests of western North America from Mexico to central British Columbia. It has a hard black exoskeleton and measures approximately 1/4 inch (the size of a grain of rice). MPB is the most aggressive, persistent, and destructive bark beetle in the western United States and Canada. MPB affects pine trees by laying eggs under the bark. The beetles introduce blue stain fungus into the sapwood preventing the tree from repelling and killing attacking beetles with tree pitch (sap).
Vulnerable Tree Species – Ponderosa, lodgepole, white bark, limber, sugar, blue spruce, bristlecone pines, and several other pine species. Infestation Signs – Signs of MPB infestation include white pitch tubes, running pitch, “sawdust” at the base of the tree, and multiple small emergence holes in the bark. During warmer months, these beetles can kill a tree in two to four weeks. Treatment – Removal. Cut and destroy infested trees along with a wide buffer strip of healthy trees. Prevention – The only treatment that can be applied to the tree is preventative. This will protect the tree by killing the beetles before they infest it. Insecticides containing the active ingredients permethrin or carbaryl and labeled for bark beetle control should be done by early June to protect trees from MPB. Information/Reporting – If you suspect an MPB infestation, hire an arborist to confirm the infestation, begin treatment and removal efforts, and contact local authorities to help contain the beetle’s spreading.
Metallic Wood-Boring Beetle (Buprestidae)
Buprestidae, also called Jewel Beetles, comprise any of some 15,000 beetle species (insect order Coleoptera). These beetles are primarily distributed in tropical regions and are among the most brilliantly colored insects. Buprestidae adult beetles feed on their host tree’s foliage, resulting in little damage to the tree. The larvae of these beetles burrow through the bark, roots, and stems of multiple tree species and woody plants to reach the cambium (water and nutrient delivery system of the tree).
Vulnerable Tree Species – Pine (Pinus), spruce (Picea), fir (Abies), hemlock (Tsuga canadensis), ash (Fraxinus), beech (Fagus), hazelnut (Corylus), apple (Malus domestica) Infestation Signs – Partially consumed foliage (leaf notches), chlorosis of foliage in sections of the crown, dieback of foliage and stems, frass (sawdust) found on the bark from burrowing activities, D-shaped exit holes in tree bark, suckers and water sprouts growing in the crown, on the trunk, and/or from the roots, woodpecker damage (woodpeckers hunt beetle larvae), squirrel activity (some squirrel species feed on beetle larvae) Treatment – Due to their larvae’s hidden feeding activities, treating a metallic wood-boring beetle infestation is not always possible and should be evaluated by a certified arborist. Prevention – Select well-adapted tree species not commonly attacked by wood-borers in your region. Select and prepare suitable planting sites to avoid tree stress, freeze damage, sunscald, windburn, and other common tree stressors. Information/Reporting – If you suspect a metallic wood-boring beetle infestation, hire an arborist to confirm the infestation, begin treatment and/or removal efforts, and contact local authorities to help contain the beetle’s spreading.
Sometimes. Tree-boring beetles are attracted to trees that are already stressed and injured (pruning wounds are common entry points for first-generation borers). Adding mulch around your tree and providing it with consistent waterings and seasonal fertilization can help it fight off or resist borers while recovering from previous damages.
Note: When you see signs of decline or bark damage (entry/exit holes or woodpecker damage), call a certified arborist to evaluate the situation and recommend a course of action.
Tree-Boring Beetles
In this article, you discovered essential information on identifying a wood-boring beetle infestation, the damages they can cause trees, how to treat and prevent infestations, and who to call for help.
Knowing how to identify, treat, and control tree-boring beetles will help you prevent or stop severe infestations from killing stands of trees on and around your property.
Ignoring beetle infestations can result in the quick death of your trees and property damage if said tree falls on your home.
